Comments for Bud Houston's Blog http://budhouston.wordpress.com Dog Agility Training and Occasional Crazy Rambling Fri, 01 Jan 2010 18:24:59 +0000 http://wordpress.com/ hourly 1 Comment on Go the Distance! by budhouston http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/28/go-the-distance/#comment-820 budhouston Fri, 01 Jan 2010 18:24:59 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/28/go-the-distance/#comment-820 Hey Mariann, Actually, I don't believe that there's a real difference in training the small dog and the big dog for distance at all. I think this was my point. Hope all is well with you! Regards, Bud Hey Mariann,

Actually, I don’t believe that there’s a real difference in training the small dog and the big dog for distance at all. I think this was my point.

Hope all is well with you!

Regards,
Bud

]]> Comment on Go the Distance! by mariann jackson http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/28/go-the-distance/#comment-816 mariann jackson Thu, 31 Dec 2009 23:08:42 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/28/go-the-distance/#comment-816 ok, this is really bugging me.... what was your reasoning for little dogs needing to be trained to do distance differently then big dogs? yes i understand the more strides to go a yard stuff. seems to me that if the dog understands the piece of equipment by name he should just go no matter were the handler is. i do distance (20 to 30 ft or more) with a 20 and a 16 and have taught them exactly the same way. their knowing the name of the piece of equipment was the first thing we did. being able to send and recall was next. then around the clock (which i learned from your camp 8 or 9 years ago) with the distance just slowly increasing. as for little dogs being slower, down here there are some very fast little motor scooters whose yps top my pretty fast 20. but i'm making the assumsion that yps is based on speed to cover a yard not stride length or number of strides needed. and maybe that's wrong and i need to rethink things. ok, this is really bugging me…. what was your reasoning for little dogs needing to be trained to do distance differently then big dogs? yes i understand the more strides to go a yard stuff. seems to me that if the dog understands the piece of equipment by name he should just go no matter were the handler is. i do distance (20 to 30 ft or more) with a 20 and a 16 and have taught them exactly the same way. their knowing the name of the piece of equipment was the first thing we did. being able to send and recall was next. then around the clock (which i learned from your camp 8 or 9 years ago) with the distance just slowly increasing. as for little dogs being slower, down here there are some very fast little motor scooters whose yps top my pretty fast 20. but i’m making the assumsion that yps is based on speed to cover a yard not stride length or number of strides needed. and maybe that’s wrong and i need to rethink things.

]]> Comment on Spacing Between Flow Obstacles in the TDAA by Deb Auer http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/17/spacing-between-flow-obstacles-in-the-tdaa/#comment-800 Deb Auer Wed, 23 Dec 2009 03:30:37 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1723#comment-800 I find the opening to the course to be a bit boring - but I would accept it if jump #1 was 10' from the barrier, given the challenges on the balance of the course. 3-4-5 is actually quite nice, given the dog's line leaving the dogwalk and committing to jump #4. Dog on left will mean a tandem into the tunnel. I'm second-guessing everything now, of course, so lifting the dismount end of the dogwalk toward the ring barrier would give a nicer line still. 6 - 10 is okay, although I think the approach to the A-frame could be better. The approach angle looks a little flat. The wonderful thing about a tunnel is that it can be reshaped, so the entrance at 10 could be the same, but the weave pole entrance at 11 is just evil. Is there a way to copy this course into CRCD? I need to play with the tunnel to see if it will need to be moved entirely, or if it can be opened up to make a better approach to the weave poles. If I can get the exit down to about 30/10, I'd be happier - 30/06 would be better. I wanted to leave the weave poles where they were, but a dog leaving the table has no momentum at all, which makes the line from 13 to 14 a bit of a problem. If we flip the table and the weave poles, we keep the table in the middle third, and it will help the handler make a better line over 13. The approach to the chute was bad to start with – the more natural line took the dog almost to the tire. I’d like to end the weave poles at about 35/45, and the exit from the poles (which is to the north) will give the dog a better approach to 13. A straighter approach to 13 means that the chute at 14 has to be dropped down just a little and made more perpendicular to 13 – I’d also move it back a few feet – almost even with the tire to make it easier for the handler to get around the chute and on toward 18. The pinwheel is too tight by far, so jump 15 needs to be moved back and jump 16 needs to be moved north. We’re going to open space between 16 and the tire, which is okay (per Bud’s tutorial). I do want to watch, while I’m opening the pinwheel, that the dog never runs the risk of jumping into a wall. The chute has been moved out of the way of the handler’s path, and to fix the closing, I’d drop the teeter to the south, toward the outer wall. It’s going to have to drop quite a bit – it will probably end up being about 5’ off the wall. I’ll probably need to straighten jump #20 a bit. I find the opening to the course to be a bit boring – but I would accept it if jump #1 was 10′ from the barrier, given the challenges on the balance of the course. 3-4-5 is actually quite nice, given the dog’s line leaving the dogwalk and committing to jump #4. Dog on left will mean a tandem into the tunnel. I’m second-guessing everything now, of course, so lifting the dismount end of the dogwalk toward the ring barrier would give a nicer line still.

6 – 10 is okay, although I think the approach to the A-frame could be better. The approach angle looks a little flat.

The wonderful thing about a tunnel is that it can be reshaped, so the entrance at 10 could be the same, but the weave pole entrance at 11 is just evil. Is there a way to copy this course into CRCD? I need to play with the tunnel to see if it will need to be moved entirely, or if it can be opened up to make a better approach to the weave poles. If I can get the exit down to about 30/10, I’d be happier – 30/06 would be better.

I wanted to leave the weave poles where they were, but a dog leaving the table has no momentum at all, which makes the line from 13 to 14 a bit of a problem. If we flip the table and the weave poles, we keep the table in the middle third, and it will help the handler make a better line over 13. The approach to the chute was bad to start with – the more natural line took the dog almost to the tire. I’d like to end the weave poles at about 35/45, and the exit from the poles (which is to the north) will give the dog a better approach to 13. A straighter approach to 13 means that the chute at 14 has to be dropped down just a little and made more perpendicular to 13 – I’d also move it back a few feet – almost even with the tire to make it easier for the handler to get around the chute and on toward 18.

The pinwheel is too tight by far, so jump 15 needs to be moved back and jump 16 needs to be moved north. We’re going to open space between 16 and the tire, which is okay (per Bud’s tutorial).
I do want to watch, while I’m opening the pinwheel, that the dog never runs the risk of jumping into a wall.

The chute has been moved out of the way of the handler’s path, and to fix the closing, I’d drop the teeter to the south, toward the outer wall. It’s going to have to drop quite a bit – it will probably end up being about 5’ off the wall. I’ll probably need to straighten jump #20 a bit.

]]> Comment on Spacing Between Flow Obstacles in the TDAA by Wayne http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/17/spacing-between-flow-obstacles-in-the-tdaa/#comment-795 Wayne Sat, 19 Dec 2009 13:22:27 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1723#comment-795 Summary: Move the first jump for at least a 10 foot space for the dog and handler. Readjust the second jump. Slight movement of the jump after the dogwalk to create flow toward the tunnel. I suggest squaring up jump 6-13. After the A Frame move the tunnel back so there is at least 12 feet of space. Move the weave poles two feet toward the dogwalk and angle up about 1 foot. Move the table back 2 feet and angle slightly to be square with the dog's anticipated path. By Squaring jump 6-13 and moving it west about two feet this leaves a nice 12 foot entry into the chute. Jump 15 needs to move about 4 feet and angle up about 1 foot. Jump 16 is going to move about 4 feet up and slight angle to provide a square approach to the tire. The tire will move two feet up and 3 feet forward and angle slightly toward jump 18. Jump 18 comes up about 2-3 feet between the A Frame and Chute. The teeter angles slightly so the entrance is down about 1 foot. The final jump moves about two feet back. Begin Course Designer Version 3 For a free viewer, go to www.coursedesigner.com/viewer AAJ+eJw9kT9IW0Ecx7+/d+/FmIgVpf5DPWopcXAwqX8HxUEacKiD7WSziAWhRIoa Eerg4NChUCeHQgcJOmgLoqK0RUkz+G/s1jE4BRdFLXkvMde7eOcNDz587v3uwx2j hsVn7+ugF8klP4whAFgAYzTB3y3tDYvDzDHmN4/OWYNlWXxKbW6yR4L0Ir+Y7afx Wm4TxhC1v+cmaReKvoqEnRWThBKti/jjEIxrxU/vJTMOWCgs2MalxJw/Tcb1YpVy D+4pXl9v3xk3hG9XflZyg4QovtS0ecu0Ah6BPOEtTuwU46/U/INg9fWWLQT783e4 8IY+FmdEonivppydypJqLDy5csQ+tdEa+DThQiyXfy7znciz2gk1yPoGBPeAUbHj RYMpRnxC3cKHsh+XKdZOPKBowNsIVLAb4oeKQv+qbgjh5nuK23EQIppmnTNBeK6p riotqVNTC/fFHEKXxk/55B2hW9OS28LlK/VoTOZj6po0Zb2MpD5NsdtHcmq4wxzC ul2Jpgfl9UWJJijjbMhfw6Yoh18yIWyS4M8wiSYpIaBGmabf7rYaZZrSrl9tNlGn XtKSaKrIDUkbkVX/AVZzm9w= End Course Designer Summary:
Move the first jump for at least a 10 foot space for the dog and handler. Readjust the second jump. Slight movement of the jump after the dogwalk to create flow toward the tunnel.

I suggest squaring up jump 6-13. After the A Frame move the tunnel back so there is at least 12 feet of space. Move the weave poles two feet toward the dogwalk and angle up about 1 foot. Move the table back 2 feet and angle slightly to be square with the dog’s anticipated path.

By Squaring jump 6-13 and moving it west about two feet this leaves a nice 12 foot entry into the chute. Jump 15 needs to move about 4 feet and angle up about 1 foot. Jump 16 is going to move about 4 feet up and slight angle to provide a square approach to the tire. The tire will move two feet up and 3 feet forward and angle slightly toward jump 18.
Jump 18 comes up about 2-3 feet between the A Frame and Chute.
The teeter angles slightly so the entrance is down about 1 foot. The final jump moves about two feet back.

Begin Course Designer
Version 3
For a free viewer, go to http://www.coursedesigner.com/viewer
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XtKSaKrIDUkbkVX/AVZzm9w=
End Course Designer

]]> Comment on Spacing Between Flow Obstacles in the TDAA by Jon http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/17/spacing-between-flow-obstacles-in-the-tdaa/#comment-793 Jon Thu, 17 Dec 2009 20:42:53 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1723#comment-793 Bud, I'd be concerned about the spacing between 10 & 11. I'd have the tunnel exit back a couple of feet. I'd rather use a plain jump at 17 vs the tire jump due to the possibility of a dog taking the tire at an angle after going over 13. I'd also change either the angle of 14 or place 15 further away. Jon Bud,

I’d be concerned about the spacing between 10 & 11. I’d have the tunnel exit back a couple of feet.

I’d rather use a plain jump at 17 vs the tire jump due to the possibility of a dog taking the tire at an angle after going over 13.

I’d also change either the angle of 14 or place 15 further away.

Jon

]]> Comment on Spacing Between Flow Obstacles in the TDAA by Margaret Hendershot http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/17/spacing-between-flow-obstacles-in-the-tdaa/#comment-792 Margaret Hendershot Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:02:24 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1723#comment-792 The natural arc of 6-7-8 takes the dog towards the chute rather than creating an approach to the aframe. As a handler, I would really want to stay on the outside of that curve in order to try and shape that approach. Being able to pitch my dogs to the tunnel and wait on the landing side of #6 might make that work, but that's a lot to ask of most handlers. The chute is also awfully close as an off course possibility. Coming off the aframe, the #10 tunnel is awfully close. And the weave pole entry is nearly impossible. I'm not sure Luigi could make that entry and wouldn't even ask Desilu to try. Moving the tunnel back towards the start line would help quite a bit. I would expect the judge to watch a lot of dogs slide off of the table if they had any momentum in the weaves. Off of the table, the path of the dog is right into the side of the chute barrel. Moving the table back towards the #7 jump might help both problems, but you have to watch for the off course after #7 then. From the chute into the pin wheel is just not happening. Way too close. And coming out of the pin wheel, the average handler is going to trip over the chute barrel (while their dog runs past the tire that was no where near square). Assuming the handler isn't on the floor (or cursing at the judge) the approach to the teeter is really nasty. The dog's arc actually takes it way to the left and I'd expect dogs with any speed to either get a refusal or a clumsy side mount. Without the transitional distances on the map, its tough to comment on those. (Although it is clear that there is not enough room in front of the start obstacle. One of MY biggest issues as a course designer.) Bud - can you post this (or email it) as an .agl file so it can be edited? The natural arc of 6-7-8 takes the dog towards the chute rather than creating an approach to the aframe. As a handler, I would really want to stay on the outside of that curve in order to try and shape that approach. Being able to pitch my dogs to the tunnel and wait on the landing side of #6 might make that work, but that’s a lot to ask of most handlers. The chute is also awfully close as an off course possibility.

Coming off the aframe, the #10 tunnel is awfully close. And the weave pole entry is nearly impossible. I’m not sure Luigi could make that entry and wouldn’t even ask Desilu to try. Moving the tunnel back towards the start line would help quite a bit.

I would expect the judge to watch a lot of dogs slide off of the table if they had any momentum in the weaves. Off of the table, the path of the dog is right into the side of the chute barrel. Moving the table back towards the #7 jump might help both problems, but you have to watch for the off course after #7 then.

From the chute into the pin wheel is just not happening. Way too close. And coming out of the pin wheel, the average handler is going to trip over the chute barrel (while their dog runs past the tire that was no where near square).

Assuming the handler isn’t on the floor (or cursing at the judge) the approach to the teeter is really nasty. The dog’s arc actually takes it way to the left and I’d expect dogs with any speed to either get a refusal or a clumsy side mount.

Without the transitional distances on the map, its tough to comment on those. (Although it is clear that there is not enough room in front of the start obstacle. One of MY biggest issues as a course designer.)

Bud – can you post this (or email it) as an .agl file so it can be edited?

]]> Comment on Reintroduced to NADAC by Barbara and The Symphony of Hounds http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/10/reintroduced-to-nadac/#comment-791 Barbara and The Symphony of Hounds Wed, 16 Dec 2009 03:37:19 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1720#comment-791 The rubber contacts also would provide a lot more traction and relief in the teeter in the 'bounceback' physics of the board. The hounds start out running a nice teeter, then, after they are experienced and can predict that is going to be uncomfortable, they start 'walking' the teeter very carefully. I watch LOTS of dogs do this over time, normal dogs that is, not the suicidal ones that will take any obstacle at any angle and any speed if the handler presents it! Something I have observed my last 3 puppies (Leilah and Holly are now 13 months! Yikes! and JJ is now 5 months) is they got introduced to contacts on the softer surface (and smaller size of course!), then I accidentally gave them a 4' x8' (standard sheet size) of thick, smooth, plywood angled up to an 8' table in the barn, and they love to "play" on this by running up the side of it, NOT to get on the table, but to SLIDE or run back down it in an arc, reminds me a bit of what skateboarders do in those big rampy things. They are so clearly confident about moving, wiggly and slick angled surfaces now, that they feel like they have total grip on the rough or rubber surfaces! The key of course, is that the dog has positive experience with the traction surface, THEN has exposure and experience with the slick surface, then when we go back to the traction surface, they feel totally in control of their feet. This is much like working reining horses in very thick, "stickier" footing for schooling sliding, then, when the horse competes in a normal show arena, to him, the footing is thin and easy and he feels like he can skate over top of it, and you get better slides! The "accidental" part, by the way, is that I had stored the plywood sheet next to the table, the dogs knocked into it and it slid a bit so it was leaning on the table, one side 'caught' in the groove of what was a dairy aisle, and they have been playing on it ever since! Anway, I hope the rubber catches on with other venues! Barbara and The Symphony of Hounds The rubber contacts also would provide a lot more traction and relief in the teeter in the ‘bounceback’ physics of the board.

The hounds start out running a nice teeter, then, after they are experienced and can predict that is going to be uncomfortable, they start ‘walking’ the teeter very carefully. I watch LOTS of dogs do this over time, normal dogs that is, not the suicidal ones that will take any obstacle at any angle and any speed if the handler presents it!

Something I have observed my last 3 puppies (Leilah and Holly are now 13 months! Yikes! and JJ is now 5 months) is they got introduced to contacts on the softer surface (and smaller size of course!), then I accidentally gave them a 4′ x8′ (standard sheet size) of thick, smooth, plywood angled up to an 8′ table in the barn, and they love to “play” on this by running up the side of it, NOT to get on the table, but to SLIDE or run back down it in an arc, reminds me a bit of what skateboarders do in those big rampy things.

They are so clearly confident about moving, wiggly and slick angled surfaces now, that they feel like they have total grip on the rough or rubber surfaces! The key of course, is that the dog has positive experience with the traction surface, THEN has exposure and experience with the slick surface, then when we go back to the traction surface, they feel totally in control of their feet.

This is much like working reining horses in very thick, “stickier” footing for schooling sliding, then, when the horse competes in a normal show arena, to him, the footing is thin and easy and he feels like he can skate over top of it, and you get better slides!

The “accidental” part, by the way, is that I had stored the plywood sheet next to the table, the dogs knocked into it and it slid a bit so it was leaning on the table, one side ‘caught’ in the groove of what was a dairy aisle, and they have been playing on it ever since!

Anway, I hope the rubber catches on with other venues!

Barbara and The Symphony of Hounds

]]> Comment on Reintroduced to NADAC by Ronni http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/10/reintroduced-to-nadac/#comment-788 Ronni Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:06:22 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1720#comment-788 While I can appreciate the technical handling of the "international standard" courses, nothing takes my breath away like watching excellent NADAC handlers working the bonus line. I know I'm not alone because the arena goes quiet when the teams walk out on to the course. I compete in NADAC because my All American wasn't welcome in AKC. He's a bit of a velcro dog, and would have been better suited to AKC courses, but over the past 3 years of NADAC competitions he's learned to do some distance. Now I even look forward to the "Elite Chances" class that I used to dread! Although AKC is changing their rules regarding All Americans, it's too little too late for my boy, who will soon need to be retired. While I can appreciate the technical handling of the “international standard” courses, nothing takes my breath away like watching excellent NADAC handlers working the bonus line. I know I’m not alone because the arena goes quiet when the teams walk out on to the course.

I compete in NADAC because my All American wasn’t welcome in AKC. He’s a bit of a velcro dog, and would have been better suited to AKC courses, but over the past 3 years of NADAC competitions he’s learned to do some distance. Now I even look forward to the “Elite Chances” class that I used to dread! Although AKC is changing their rules regarding All Americans, it’s too little too late for my boy, who will soon need to be retired.

]]> Comment on TDAA Course Design – Trapped by Long Lines by Michelle http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/04/tdaa-course-design-%e2%80%93-trapped-by-long-lines/#comment-787 Michelle Fri, 11 Dec 2009 03:49:48 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1711#comment-787 I agree with you so much about the distance skills of NADAC handlers. Here in the NW we have some amazing teams of all ages that demostrate distance and accuracy. It is beautiful to watch. And while the big dogs look great running at such distance from their handlers I am always more impressed by the smaller dogs running at the same distance; it just looks so much farther apart! I love the rubber contacts, especially the newer thinner ones. The dogs do not slip in rain, the sand isn't worn off down the middle of the a frame (there is no sand!) and it just seems less strenous to the dogs. I know Elvis will be a wonderful NADAC dog and just got his registration last month. Glad you're a NADAC judge Bud, maybe we'll get to trial under you in NADAC in the NW I agree with you so much about the distance skills of NADAC handlers. Here in the NW we have some amazing teams of all ages that demostrate distance and accuracy. It is beautiful to watch. And while the big dogs look great running at such distance from their handlers I am always more impressed by the smaller dogs running at the same distance; it just looks so much farther apart!
I love the rubber contacts, especially the newer thinner ones. The dogs do not slip in rain, the sand isn’t worn off down the middle of the a frame (there is no sand!) and it just seems less strenous to the dogs.
I know Elvis will be a wonderful NADAC dog and just got his registration last month.
Glad you’re a NADAC judge Bud, maybe we’ll get to trial under you in NADAC in the NW

]]> Comment on Grand Prix – Lawrence, KS by Barbara and The Symphony of Hounds http://budhouston.wordpress.com/2009/12/01/grand-prix-lawrence-ks/#comment-783 Barbara and The Symphony of Hounds Fri, 04 Dec 2009 20:49:03 +0000 http://budhouston.wordpress.com/?p=1707#comment-783 Here's a couple more from Hevos: Some training, send to table and weave work (that is not working so they go on) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnNKq3tkHrA&feature=related Some photos...a minute or so into this, is a little pinto pony, sheltie-colored, going through the hoop with his belly rubbing on the way through...this reminds me a LOT of Birdie doing his hoops! Here’s a couple more from Hevos:

Some training, send to table and weave work (that is not working so they go on)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnNKq3tkHrA&feature=related

Some photos…a minute or so into this, is a little pinto pony, sheltie-colored, going through the hoop with his belly rubbing on the way through…this reminds me a LOT of Birdie doing his hoops!

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